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A brilliant 10 day trek and am now back in Pokhara for 3 days R&R before flying to Delhi on the 17th January. The trek was with an excellent guide, Hari, an ideal companion for a venture that took us up to 3,800m to Muktinath, through and above the alpine region to barren open landscapes with the most amazing rock formations I've ever seen. Across ex-glacial river valleys were you had clear views of some of the highest mountains (Dhailagiri, Nilgiri and Annapurna1,2,3,4 peaks) in the Himalayas. The whole area, previously a seabed, was very reminiscent of the Dorset Jurassic coast, and the stones lying everywhere were identical to Dorset. Most of the gift shops in the towns and (mainly) villages we passed through sold fossils collected from the surrounding hills and river beds. Hand made scarves from sheep and wool were sold directly from the wooden looms, often placed outside the houses, so you were able to watch the scarves being woven as well as the wool being 'carded' at the beginning of the process.
I purchased one such scarf and wore it round my waist to keep warm, particularly in the mornings, which were often below freezing at the beginning of the days trek. This trek forms part of the Annapurna circuit trek as you would often see trekkers going up or down from Muktinath to Jomsom or Beni. Sadly people were not trekking on this section as much as going by jeep on very basic roads to start trekking higher up from Muktinath. The local villages were adversely effected, economically, by this change and many of the tea/guest houses were seeing significant falls in the number of trekkers/tourists staying overnight. Muktinath is a destination for Hindu pilgrims, rather akin to Mecca for Muslims. A very large and impressive shrine rivalled only by the Buddhist shrine and monastery next door. Muktinath as a place was disappointing and Kagbeni, the next town down, far more memorable and I took many photo's of this town with it's ancient mud walled fort. It also snowed in Muktinath so we beat a hasty retreat the next morning before the paths became icy. We spent 2 days staying at Tatopani on the way down, spending as much time as possible in the hot springs, this time I remembered a swimming costume!
Given that the general recommendation is not to eat meat the higher the altitude as it is not very fresh, arriving back in Pokhara was celebrated by a large meal of meat and much fresh salad.
Photo 1 Hari My excellent guide on trek. Sitting on a rooftop while waiting for lunch. The roof is used to store wood for the winter - the more wood the richer you are seen to be.
Photo 2 In Marpha, the center of apple growing in Nepal. They make an excellent cider and an apple brandy (very potent)
View of Mount Dhailagiri about 7th or 8th highest in world.
Photo 3 Sandstone rock with many caves, some occupied until 16th Century.
Photo 4 Local weaver in village on way to final stop at Muktinath. Many women weave out in the open as even in ainter the afternoons are warm, with temperatures reaching the low 20C. Bought a yak and sheep wool scarf from her.
Photo 5 & 6 Views sown the valley from Kagbeni with Nilgiri on the left (no 5)