A 14 day trek from Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) started on 18th November with high hopes of success, sadly the weather was against us and at Himalay (2900m) a blizzard caught us out and the 3 of us (my guide, Diness and porter, Dil) attempted to move upwards towards Duarali but the ice and snow were too difficult to traverse and at 3,200m we turned back. However the scenary was spectacular, alternating between forests of bamboo, banyan and conifers and lower down many fruiting banaana trees, as well as , much to my surprise, rhodedendrum trees. During the day we turned back the mountain rescue helicopter past us on its way to rescue some trekkers, we felt we had made the right decision.
The highlight of the remaining trek was Poon Hill at sunrise, which necessitated getting up at 04.45 to join a torchlight procession climbing 320m up the hill in time for the dawn. Our luck was in and the sky was clear and the stars were brighter than you will ever see them in the UK. At dawn we (there were about 200 people) were greeted by a view of many Himalayan peaks, including all 3 Annapurna peaks and the first shaft of sunlight as it caught the highest. See some of the many photo's of this when I can load them! On the climb down you could then see that the landscape was bathed in frost, lit by the newly risen sun, an unforgettable sight which some people here compare to being at ABC and argue it is a better view. During the trek we came across many varieties of butterflies, some , for example the small blues are common to the UK. The buzzard was also seen on more than one occasion, recognisable by their distinctive call, and today in Pokhara I saw many swallows flying around the Phew Lake.
The 15 day trek was very strenuous, climbing, descending and climbing again often more than 1000m ascending in a day. Accommodation was at 'tea houses' along the way, basic and with no hot water in most or you arrive too late for a hot shower as there is limited solar heated water and others beat you to it - a cold shower at 06 00 is an excellent wake up call to a sluggish body first thing! Nepal is fairly limited as to washing and toilet facilities, and you are continually being reminded not to go to the toilet whilst in the wild within 50m of a water course. This is not as easy as it sounds, as Nepal has a lot of water courses including some awe inspiring waterfalls. The country is still without electricity in many places or daily power cuts are common, so my wind-up torch has proved very useful.
We arrived back in Pokhara on 1st December, a day early, and my porter and guide left and I have spent time relaxing and catching up on emails etc. The hotel is luxurious compared to the last 2 weeks with a proper bathroom (perhaps more aptly described as a wet room) and a TV that spews out some dreadful Indian programmes but includes BBC world news, which I value. Whilst trekking I was able to tune in to the Indian vs England cricket , but sadly only on one occasion so do not know the final score - could someone let me know, probably best by email.
Tomorrow am taking the tourist bus to Kathmandu as opposed to the rough and tumble 0f the local bus. It takes 6 hours but for a little extra lunch is provided.
Am not looking forward to Kathmandu (for 5 days, before tackling Everest Base Camp for 20 days), due to the pollution levels being far higher in Kathmandu than Pokhara. Will probably be back to Pokhara if for no other reason than it has many great second hand bookshops which will do part exchanges. Whilst meeting people from all over the world is stimulating, am finding a quiet read of many books I have wanted to read and not had enough time, is also great.
Photo 1 view of Fishtail and Annapurna 1 Mountains from Phew Lake Pokhara
Photo 2 2/3 of way up to Annapurna Base Camp, about at Bamboo
Photo 3 The morning after the blizzard that sadly led to our turning back.
Photo 4. View of Fishtail Mountain from Sinewa, on the way back down.