National Park Village and the Tongeriro Crossing

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National Park Village is the nearest location to the Tongeriro Crossing, the most popular day tramp in NZ, though attempting it in winter provided an additional challenge with the presence of snow and ice and as a result, the need to use crampons. I was very fortunate in meeting Eric again, a fellow tramper from the Able Tasman hike, and his friend, Dave, an experienced tramper and one time outward bound instructor. Undertaking this hike alone is not a sensible option in winter! The YHA manager, Thomas, was very helpful in his advice, as well as providing the necessary equipment for hire (crampons) and transport to the starting points of the hikes.
We accomplished the crossing in 6 hours with additional stopping time for food, photo's and crampon 'fixing'. Altogether a spectacular tramp despite variable levels of cloud and on higher ground winds of 40 - 65km an hour. There were times were the snow was above our knees (a more frequent occurrence for me with the shortest legs!), but we were able to negotiate the steep incline and descents with the use of walking poles to give extra stability and prevent being blown off the ridges. Sadly there was too much snow, ice and wind to climb Mount Tongeriro or Ngauguhoe to reach the craters of either one.
The backpacker hostel was next door to the local bar, serving a very acceptable pint of Speights beer, and after the hike we retired there for dinner and a few pints, a very hospitable watering hole with good food served in large quantities, quickly demolished by all, as the cold and energy needed for the crossing gives you a significant appetite. National Park village though small also had a decent cafe at the old railway station, and whenever the opportunity arose I would make use of their special offer of good coffee and cake for 5$ (NZ dollars).
I stayed for 3 nights at the village and after a days rest, completed another 6 hour tramp to the Tamu Lakes, on the other side of Mount Ngauruhoe. For me the lakes were of even more spectacular than the Emerald Lakes on the Tongeriro Crossing, also the weather was bright and sunny with no wind or snow, so much easier to negotiate this track. I had remembered to take sunscreen on this tramp but despite this finished the day as brown as a berry, and feeling really fit and alive.
My final tramp in NZ was to Lake Waikeramoana, though the journey to this Lake was very circuitous and therefore long over a few days. I stopped off at Lake Taupo for 2 nights and received a thorough soaking as the weather deteriorated and the volcanic lake looked grey and depressing. A 2 night stop at Napier, on the coast, was much more interesting with thermal hot pools available at the local recreation centre overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Here I managed a 50% reduction in the entry price for being a senior citizen! The final town before arriving at Lake Waikeramoana was Waoroa, also on the coast and perhaps the most laid back town in NZ. Unfortunately no cheap accommodation so stayed in a brilliant motel with a helpful manager who, with the I-site people enabled me to arrange the transport to the lake ( a 50km journey ) and also transport to the beginning of the tramp and collection from the other end. Fortunately I'd allowed a day to organise all of this, not easy to do as it was the end of the main tramping season with few takers, and the lake is known as one of NZ's best kept secrets.

Photo 1. Mount Ngauruhoe, this was used in the Lord of the Rings trilogy as Mount Doom (an amalgamation with Mount Cook).
Photo 2. Dave and Eric, happy snappers on a cold day.
Photo 3. David and I looking perished, but happy to be there. NB At this point the lowering cloud base was beginning to obscure Mt Tongeriro in the background, also note the ice formations in the foreground, crampons essential footwear at this point!
Photo 4. The Emerald Lake from the highest point of the trek.
Photo 5. The Mount Ruapahoe range taken from National Park village. The volcanic lower slopes of this range were also used in the final scenes of the journey to Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings.
Photo 6. Mount Tongeriro viewed from the Southern Crater early on in the crossing.
Photo 7. The final descent from the crossing, were we passed the thermal volcanic vents along the hillside, the all pervasive smell of sulphur.
Photo 8. The YHA backpackers hostel in National Park Village. The climbing wall hall was used in the Lord of the Rings filming as a rehearsal hall. The whole trilogy generated a lot of income to people in the area.
Photo 9. The Teranaki Waterfall viewed on the Tamu Lakes walk.
Photo 10. The upper Tamu Lake viewed from the narrow ridge of the final ascent.