South America and the first stop, Peru

Finally arrived in Peru following an arduous 17 hour journey from New Zealand, feeling disorientated and tired but went immediately to join the Gap Inca Trail tour starting on the 1st October for a 6 day journey to the Sacred Valley and then on to the 4 day hike of the Inca Trail with an international group of 15. I met with , Amanda, from Eire,

and we spent the next 7 days in each others´ company, sharing rooms and tents.

The Sacred Valley tour of Pisac, the ruins of the 14th-15th century Inca city, though crowded gave us our first site of Inca ruins in sunny and warm weather conditions, given the increasingly high rainfall through October and into November at this time of the year. Staying in a hostal in Ollantaytambo we viewed this towns` Inca ruins , which again involved some steep inclines through the now familiar Inca terraces, it proved good preparation for the hikes to come! The next morning we set out for the beginning of the Inca Trail, starting at the 82km marker point at Piskacuchu. Walking for 4hrs we climbed steadily, reaching higher altitudes and our night camp of Wallabamba at 3200m, stopping at Llactapata, an Inca ruin on the way. The sub tropical fauna consisted of mainly eucalytus trees (surprised by this)and some cactus and succulent plants, often edible. First night sleeping in tents was fairly difficult, largely due to a thunderstorm and heavy rain which hit us early evening. However rising at 0500 and starting on the trail by 0700 was to become the norm! The food was good, traditional Peruvian fare, cooked on site, every meal included locally grown potatoes and always with the option of fresh onion and fresh chilli peppers. The second day was the most gruelling with a climb to Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman Pass) at an altitude of 4,215m, a climb of 1300m in four and a half hours. A further hike of 2 hours, downhill on the old Inca Trail proved very tough on the knees, but we were rewarded with truly spectacular views of the surrounding mountain ranges with sub-tropical alpine vegetation (many bamboos). Tea and Dinner at the Papymayo camp filled the hole in our bellies after the 7-8 hour hike and despite more heavy rain I think everyone slept the sleep of the dead.

Day 3 of the trail was supposedly less gruelling though involved ascending to the Runkuraqay Pass at 3,760m followed by a visit to the ruins at Phutupatamarca, through similar terrain as on previous days, and still following the Inca trail, basically a rough and uneven stone footpath.

Before reaching camp we were able to walk through the ruins at Intipata, another agricultural community consisting mainly of wide terraces. The last camp before Machu Picchu itself was blessed with hot showers so there was generally a rush to clean up after 3 days of blood, sweat and near tears! The downside of Day 4 was the need to be up (0400) and walking (fast) on the final morning to reach the Sungate Temple by sunrise, which would give our first view of the city of Macchu Picchu. I made it at considerable personal physical cost but it was worthwhile and only requiring a further half hours´ walk down to the city of Machu Picchu.

Without doubt the remains of this civilisation, destroyed by the conquering Spaniards, rightly belongs in the category of a World Heritage Sight. The extent of this city, thought to be a place of rest and relaxation for the high Inca´s (though there are differing opinions on this), is breathtaking on first sight. The day was hot, but we arrived before the heat became generally too much, shelter being sparse, in time for a tour by Marcello, our guide, and also before the city become overcrowded with visitors who had arrived by bus from Agua Caliente. Walking poles were not permitted so we negotiated the steep steps in the city without their use, tricky when I was used to their support.

Afterwards we took the bus down to Agua Calientes where after having had lunch, 6 of us rushed up to the hot springs and soaked for half an hour before catching the train to Ollantaytambo, followed by a coach to Cusco. We booked back into the Prisma Hotel and spent the next 24 hours celebrating our achievement before we dispersed to our varied next destinations. I booked the Lares Trail, but first spending two and a half days in Cusco relaxing with full massage, and haircut etc. The Lares trail was a 4 day trail starting with a day at the Lares hot springs. This gruelling trail with guide, porter/cook with horse, was an opportunity to meet the rural people of Peru, and also very much off the tourist trail.

I must apologise for any confusion caused by the lack of a chronological order in displaying the following photo´s.

Photo 1. The group at the 82km point at Piskacuchu, the start of the trail.

Photo 2. Llactapata Inca ruins, and taking a well earned rest.

Photo 3. The view from half way up to Dead Woman´Pass.

Photo 4. The happy/relieved group at the pass.

Photo 5. Macchu Picchu viewed from the Temple of the Sun (taken at about 06.30).

Photo 6. The view of the surrounding mountains from the Temple of Water, including members of my tour group.

Photo 7. The Temple of the Sun, viewed from above.

Photo 8. The Sundial (the top was partly destroyed by Budweiser when filming an advert (!!) , evidence that the Inca`s were also interested in the sciences (detailed evidence of their skills in astronomy were well documented).

Photo 9. Relaxing in the heat on the site of one of the many temples of Macchu Piccu.

Photo 10. Peruvian Rail train to Ollantaytambu. An interesting journey, highly scenic, however the ´backpacker contingent´were placed in the two more basic end carriages (!) and obliged to finish their journey at Ollantaytambo, and complete their journey by bus to Cusco....

Photo 11. A colourful religious parade in Cusco, seen on my 2 day R&R in Cusco.

Photo 12. Lunch with my fellow Inca Trail hikers in a Peruvian Bar. We were lucky enough to arrive as the band started playing. They were so good on the ear that I purchased their CD.

Photo 13. Cusco viewed from the Inca Museum (not very impressive!) looking towards the main square of San Francisco.

Photo 14. The cathedral in San Francisco Square.

Photo 15. The Andes seen on Day 3 of the trail

Photo 16. Amanda and I, with Wanda in the background taking a break - again.

Photo 17. The ruins of Sayac Marca on Day 2.

Photo 18. Intipata, the final site viewed before Machu Picchu.

Photo 19. as above (still haven´t figured out how to delete......)

Photo 20. The dawn on Day 4, before we were able to pass the final official gate to Macchu Picchu.

Photo 21. A further repeat!